BESPOKE VS MADE TO MEASURE

A suit's quality is determined by its material, style, and tailoring (the degree to which it fits the individual). Correlated to that last component, let's look at a few phrases used to describe different methods — particularly bespoke and made-to-measure (MTM).

 

• Other suit descriptors: ready-to-wear, off-the-rack, and custom

• 5 differences between bespoke & made-to-measure

• Development of suit creation

• Vagueness & lack of law

• Receiving the right fit

 

Other suit descriptors: ready-to-wear, off-the-rack, and custom

 

Before we get into particulars related to bespoke and made-to-measure, let's look at three other ways that suits are described or categorized:

 

Ready-to-wear (RTW): The designer comes up with cuts and styles for suits, offering ready-to-wear suits directly off the rack. "The evolution of the RTW suit was established in the 1950s when manufacturers segmented the male form into different sizes for mass production," notes British tailoring blog Permanent Style. While this approach is used for most of the suits available today, no effort is made to fit a particular individual directly.

 

Off-the-rack: This term is interchangeable with ready-to-wear.

 

Custom: This class is the opposite of the ready-to-wear or off-the-rack suit. It is altered to accommodate the wearer. This term is a relatively broad description, though, inclusive of both made-to-measure and bespoke. It relates to the ability to change anything to meet your style or measurement needs.

 

Five distinctions between bespoke & made-to-measure

 

Now that we have a complete sense of terms that are used to describe suits, let's look at bespoke vs. made-to-measure from five different perspectives:

 

1.) Pattern-making

 

Made-to-measure: The suit shop takes a size 44 jacket's patterns and adjusts them if you are not within allowable measurements. That means the master tailor can change aspects, such as shoulder width and jacket length so that the finished product better conforms to your body. A fundamental way to determine quality within the MTM category is to look at the number of measurements they collect (hopefully more than a handful).

 

Bespoke: Instead of using standardized patterns, tailors use a new pattern each time for bespoke tailoring. This method allows them not to overlook details and to treat each wearer as genuinely unique. The alignment of the body comes into play, along with extensive measurements.

 

2.) Fittings

 

Made-to-measure: You get a fitting at the origin of this process. There is a second fitting when the finished suit is prepared. There are no fittings during the making of the suit. However, you can usually make adjustments if a measurement is off or you otherwise want an adjustment.

 

Bespoke: Various fittings take place while the suit is being produced. These fittings make the method more complicated, but they also greatly enhance the quality. These mid-fittings include the skeleton baste fitting, forward fitting, and fin bar fin fitting. These fittings are primarily revisions on the original draft. Skilled tailors will keep improving and arrive at a much higher degree of precision.

 

3.) Fabric

 

Made-to-measure: You will typically choose selected fabrics from one or two mills; essentially, there are two different sources of that element. Using just one or two suppliers impacts the options available regarding the fabrics, cost, and quality.

 

Bespoke: Generally, a bespoke shop customer will have access to ten mills or more offerings.

 

4.) Customization options

 

Made-to-measure: There will be a defined list of design characteristics that you will be able to adjust. These will generally include cuffs, buttons, pant pleats, pocket options, and vent style. You might see the ability to change other features, such as button-stance, gorge height, interior lining, or lapel width.

 

Bespoke: There is no restricted list of options. The suit can be modified, no matter how complex your request.

 

5.) Tailor face-time

 

Made-to-measure: A sales associate will take your measurements and pass their findings to the lead cutter, production manager, or master tailor. The person who takes your measurements will not necessarily have a lot of training.

 

Bespoke: You will meet with the tailor.

 

Ambiguity & Lack of Law 

 

These concepts and practices are taken very seriously by tailors and other suit professionals. However, because there is ambiguity, some manufacturers have wanted the use of tailoring language to be protected by law. In France, haute couture is legally protected, with guidelines for its use by the business. In the United Kingdom, some companies have tried to get bespoke defined within the law; however, the Advertising Standards Authority did not accept their proposal.

 

In other words, there are no laws for these words, just accepted industry standards and an understanding of the suit shops that are most concerned with acting in your best interests.

 

Getting the right fit

 

Do you want a suit that is both masterful and individualized? At CK Custom Tailor, our custom garments' fit is our number one priority and sets us apart from the rest of the pack. Book an appointment today.

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